Braking Discussion

M

marcus.brooks@hotmail.co.

New member
I am really struggling with braking on LMU. With ABS off, I can get a good lap time in qualifying, but then in the race, there is simply no feel through through the brake pedal, so excessive locking occurs and I end up lapping 1- 3 seconds off my qualifying pace and dropping like a stone. It's as if the other cars are not suffering from tyre wear or locking. It is killing the enjoyment for me, as I have never had this issue in any other SIM. My current solution is to run with ABS on low, which at least makes the car drivable and consistent over a stint. Anyone else struggling with braking and excessive locking due to zero feel on the brakes?
 
After the last patch I thought I have abs active all the time:D
I have the impression braking is a lot more forgiving than it was. But i was driving only toyota the last days. A bit locking is still there, but it's easy to handle for me. Maybe it's the car? The caddy was awful
 
For now I'm only driving GTEs but the thing that helped me most was lowering brake pressures to around 90%. That way I can still easily lock up when full braking but get way more nuanced feel. At 100% there is too little pedal travel to modulate.
Ps: no ABS
 
Indeed braking seems to be much more forgiving after the last patch then before. I don't spin on turn in any more, before it was keep on happening. Brakes can still get locked on the initial phase of braking, but with getting off a bit and back on the pedal seems to work just fine. Not sure what this means for front tires on a long runs.
Btw, since I mnentioned it, there is still one strange thing happening, there are always locking only the front tires, never the rear, no matter of the BB. If I put BB way to the back, then I start to spin again on turn in. Seems weird.
 
I`m not sure if this helps at all but i have found that braking technique is a big thing....certainly for me. Brake hard approaching the corner but as the speed bleeds off gradually release the pedal so your wheels arent locking but your still slowing down quickly. Your then in a position to slightly trail brake if needed. I also pump on the brake pedal very quickly to act as abs in extreme moments when talent has deserted me.

These work for me cant speak for others
 
One of the things I've really noticed in my 'transition' from using aids is how much more careful I need to be when dropping down the gears. Before I would be - bang-bang-bang- without a care in the world but now I have to finish my braking a lot better before I even think about changing gear which is quite hard to get used to.

As an aside, when I look back at my race and practice sessions, I notice that my 'aids' in the results log file are not showing TC, despite appearing to be on in the MFD. Anyone else encounter this?
 
Well I'm seeing them.....

This was me yesterday and another driver using aids.
 

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Those are the ones that were enabled via the f-keys (or in the Settings->Gameplay->Difficulty menu). That TC=2 is probably just a carry over from when it was available, or maybe there's a bug, but that definitely isn't the in-car (MFD->Electronics) setting.
 
OK, I get it. So guys like that one have still got their f-key TC 'activated' even though it's no longer doing anything....? You would think though that the 'legit' TC control would show somewhere in the results log, bearing in mind it is adjustable?
 
Yeah, it probably got saved in the Settings.JSON file, and it's still reported by the game even if it's no-op.
As for the in-car setting being reported, I don't see why it should be, it's part of the particular setup afterall, you don't see the brake balance reported, or the front/rear ARB setting in hypercars, or the mixture/power setting.
 
TC reporting has varied in the logs I've checked, even my own. I haven't tested to see if it's related to whether I adjust the TC or not, and it doesn't matter - the only TC is the onboard TC. There's nothing to log.
 
The best thing about braking I remember is CSP pedals and steering wheels with vibration motors, not shaft vibration.

You could tweak them so you could pick up the absolutely tiniest lock up, like 1/2 rotation of tyre.

Today I use SRS & Sim 3D rumble kit on Hydraulic pedals is not half as good.
 
I have a second dash and i use leds for tyres and brake temperatures. To get good braking, in Monza for example, boa should be closed at the rear and 75% in front. It will help too to keep good temperatures in tyres.

This, and dropping down the gear really carefully are essential in this game.
 
marcus.brooks@hotmail.co. said:
I am really struggling with braking on LMU. With ABS off, I can get a good lap time in qualifying, but then in the race, there is simply no feel through through the brake pedal, so excessive locking occurs and I end up lapping 1- 3 seconds off my qualifying pace and dropping like a stone. It's as if the other cars are not suffering from tyre wear or locking. It is killing the enjoyment for me, as I have never had this issue in any other SIM. My current solution is to run with ABS on low, which at least makes the car drivable and consistent over a stint. Anyone else struggling with braking and excessive locking due to zero feel on the brakes?
Click to expand...

Check your framerate. If you have noticeable higher framerate during Q than during R this may be the issue. I can't say for braking, but I was spinning like silly during races, before I figured that this was my cause. It was especially troublesome when I was recording during racing. I reduced graphical details until I got steady 144fps during races, and It improved my races considerably.

@wolke
I'm not entirely sure. I was fooling around against AI a few days ago in Hybrids. If Energy Regeneration is turned to zero in Ferrari (Toyota as well), front brakes start to overheat quickly. I was locking up and spinning during braking, and indicator at the bottom right next to tires was constantly at red, so I'd go and look at those numbers to determine temperatures.
 
The default brake bias I really bad, I had to adjust the bias to the rear a crazy amount otherwise the front tire would always lock up... especially while trail braking.
 
First thing you have to is to check if your pedals are well calibrated.

In your pedal application, try to push brake at your « normal » strenght, and you can check on simhub the brake pedal value properties of lmu. You need to be as close as possible as 99/100% in lmu properties, whereas you have to lower your pedal settings in your pedal application. « simpro »for exemple if you own simagic pedals.

Then try to get this « normal strenght » and you should see braking power in lmu is awesome.
 
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