brakes sensitivity
- Thread starter nill
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davehenrie
Well-known member
In the SETUP you can adjust the brake pressure while in the garage. I haven't investigated if that is possible while on the track.
Use the HUD to check your brake input is acting the same as normal, to rule out a bug causing issues.
Other than that, it's likely down to setup differences (including the brake pressure that Dave mentioned), and temperature/rubber on the track.
robevery1971
Well-known member
You are not alone, depending on your pedals, brakes in this game are very different and for me ridiculously over sensitive than in MOST other racing games.
I have never had issues with brakes in any of the games I have played over many years, but here I have to run my pressures a bit lower than most, in LMP2 and 3 and am in the high 50's, in Hypers I am trying to get above 80 and it is working so far, but you do get a lot of lockups still, especially in transition brake zones
It depends how you drive and on your pedals, I drive on the front end and trail brake a lot, so am affected more, if you have crap fake cell pedals like me basically using a rubber bung to increase pressure you will struggle, you might be better with old style Logi type ones on a spring, you can modulate your braking better, but they have no pressure.
#
#Load cells will gain you a lot of time, simply because you can control your braking more. I am spending a lot of time doing LM laps and am in the 30/31 range, if I watch anyone quicker, they are braking far later than I can simply due to having better pedal setups. With most of them annoying I am quicker in a lot of areas, but braking, especially at LM is a huge time saver.
I have never had issues with brakes in any of the games I have played over many years, but here I have to run my pressures a bit lower than most, in LMP2 and 3 and am in the high 50's, in Hypers I am trying to get above 80 and it is working so far, but you do get a lot of lockups still, especially in transition brake zones
It depends how you drive and on your pedals, I drive on the front end and trail brake a lot, so am affected more, if you have crap fake cell pedals like me basically using a rubber bung to increase pressure you will struggle, you might be better with old style Logi type ones on a spring, you can modulate your braking better, but they have no pressure.
#
#Load cells will gain you a lot of time, simply because you can control your braking more. I am spending a lot of time doing LM laps and am in the 30/31 range, if I watch anyone quicker, they are braking far later than I can simply due to having better pedal setups. With most of them annoying I am quicker in a lot of areas, but braking, especially at LM is a huge time saver.
The difference between online and host (offline) is probably linked to the rubber state of the track and temps.
If you play offline with "Light" track rubber, you may experience less grip and brake lock sooner.
Always check the rubber state of the track before going out and act accordingly in settings like said on previous posts.
If you play offline with "Light" track rubber, you may experience less grip and brake lock sooner.
Always check the rubber state of the track before going out and act accordingly in settings like said on previous posts.
No tire warmers online that I have seen myself, you use warmers offline?
Wow, I thought I was sensitive to brake pressure! I cant imagine that even works, but now I am going to play with the idea.
It'll work, but it won't give you very good braking.
What you learn to do over time is adjust the maximum brake force to suit the heaviest (or two/three) braking zone(s), for the initial hit on the brakes. And build a habit of easing off the brake.
It's a bit trickier in the other (slower) braking zones, because you can't hit the pedal all the way as there's not enough downforce, but again with some time you build a feel and habit that suits.
Thousands upon thousands have been doing this just fine with spring pedals for 25 years. The key is to actually practice and stick with it, rather than lament the lack of a load cell and assume everyone doing it better has one.
Higher pressure you need to be so much faster and precise, and you dont get any second chances. I guess I will learn that with time. I have been trying.
robevery1971
Well-known member
As usual you are wrong L as are your lickers I know lots of people who either struggle with braking here or just quit the game initially or RF2 because of it, it is a known issue with the RF2 engine and always has been, since the very first release which I doubt you played.
In no other sim or game in the countless I have played have I encountered this issue, going back 20 years, so all of a sudden it is just a me thing ONLY is it, I don't think so. It is an LMU thing.
You can get around it yes, but that depends entirely on how you drive also, I have encountered a lot of people in chat or elsewhere on forums or sim channels who have had the same issue, if you don't have it or others, maybe you don't push the car on the brakes as hard as I do, or use the front for feel as much as I do.
But calling out someone who has raised an issue merely because a lot of people don't experience it, does not mean my issue does not exist. That is fairly lame and simply offers your opinion which I take as nothing.
It is linked to the way I drive and the pedals I use, I would like to see you try and do the same lap times as me using the same gear. I do perfectly with what I have, and am competitive with it, I would certainly be faster with more progressive pedals as you can be more linear with the inputs and therefore raise the pressure.
When all you have to increase pressure is a rubber bung that compresses the more you press the pedal, you sre stuck with a fairly basic way of trying to modulate brake pressure.
I also very much doubt the vast majority of players at the top level are using cheap setups with old pedals, some will, same as in some shooters people can do well on pads or can compete on all sorts of games using weird setups. But in this there is no doubt a better pedal setup will help, it is pretty much accepted, except by you
In no other sim or game in the countless I have played have I encountered this issue, going back 20 years, so all of a sudden it is just a me thing ONLY is it, I don't think so. It is an LMU thing.
You can get around it yes, but that depends entirely on how you drive also, I have encountered a lot of people in chat or elsewhere on forums or sim channels who have had the same issue, if you don't have it or others, maybe you don't push the car on the brakes as hard as I do, or use the front for feel as much as I do.
But calling out someone who has raised an issue merely because a lot of people don't experience it, does not mean my issue does not exist. That is fairly lame and simply offers your opinion which I take as nothing.
It is linked to the way I drive and the pedals I use, I would like to see you try and do the same lap times as me using the same gear. I do perfectly with what I have, and am competitive with it, I would certainly be faster with more progressive pedals as you can be more linear with the inputs and therefore raise the pressure.
When all you have to increase pressure is a rubber bung that compresses the more you press the pedal, you sre stuck with a fairly basic way of trying to modulate brake pressure.
I also very much doubt the vast majority of players at the top level are using cheap setups with old pedals, some will, same as in some shooters people can do well on pads or can compete on all sorts of games using weird setups. But in this there is no doubt a better pedal setup will help, it is pretty much accepted, except by you
If your pedal software supports it you can alter the profile a bit to suit your own style and/or situations. The advantage of this is that you can use different profiles for different cars. You may be able to bind that to a hotkey.
Failing that, could use something like joystick gremlin to achieve similar results.
In my case, I could quickly switch between input profiles as required using the app for my brakes.
As it turns out I don't do that because I preferred to adjust my style - but I also didn't notice the issue OP has raised.
Failing that, could use something like joystick gremlin to achieve similar results.
In my case, I could quickly switch between input profiles as required using the app for my brakes.
As it turns out I don't do that because I preferred to adjust my style - but I also didn't notice the issue OP has raised.
A brake trace on your HUD may be really useful if you don't have one. I use tinypedal but there are also a load of simhub dashes that will show it.
I have
And the lockup trace is also good (I have lowered the setting to trace from 0.2 to match game lockup sound).
Nice one.I have
View attachment 14768
Brake trace is my favourite thing right now
It makes many more colors, when you drive like an idiotNice one.
Brake trace is my favourite thing right now
Where is this setting located? (Image if possible)
Where is this setting located? (Image if possible)
Where is this setting located? (Image if possible)
There is no dynamic setting for sensitivity or pressure. Bias and migration yes, bias I know, not sure about migration, not a hypercar guy.
I don't think I'm wrong on it.
1. I never said a LC isn't better, and I've actually said the opposite on many occasions. But that doesn't mean everyone (and there are thousands playing every day, the majority NOT using LCs) is running around on 50% brake strength because the game is tailored to high end equipment.
2. You are really treading on thin ice with disrespect towards devs and other users (ie the insult here).
3. I was heavily into league racing from 2007-2017, across rF1 and rF2 (hence why I had a motec plugin for rF2 from Feb 2012...) and I'm basing what I'm saying on what I saw across thousands of hours of practice and racing across those years. And that was a handful of drivers who kept braking the way they knew how to and struggled, and most other drivers who learnt how to brake the way that worked best for them in quite realistic F1 mods with very strong brakes and lots of aero. And nearly all using Logitech pedals. So please spare me your wisdom. You've made it quite clear in all your posts here you have no interest in learning to drive a sim, you want LMU to be like other games where you don't have to try too hard, but it's not. Suck it up or move on.
*PS Inb4 "omg mod abuse", point 2 aside I'm speaking as a fellow user. And you've more than dished out your fair share here.
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robevery1971
Well-known member
The issue is not about trying hard.
The issue that in every other game I have played, be it casual or serious I have never once experienced this crazy brake locking thing.
I will start from the beginning, my serious wheel based gaming goes back to GTR, Rfactor, some early f1 games, a few years of Iracing, AC then ACC, Race 07 and its spin offs, some less serious like Grid, Raceroom, bike games like WSBK and MotoGP, Gran Turismo just about every version, Project Cars Dirt Rally, Dirt Rally 02. And quite a few others I cant remember.
This I think is a fairly decent spread of games to form an opinion. And for me I have never, ever had to drop the brake sensitivity in game to less than maybe 90 - 95%. I have seen this point raised a lot, not so much now as people are used to it and have changed their setups as I do
Some of your points are valid, I could learn, I could be miles off the pace and brake like a granny every time, cause accidents and spend the entirety of every race with flat spots and over worked tyres.
Do you think I have not TRIED to raise it seen if it works? Of course I have, but the way my wheel/pedal setup is done I have a fairly poor, very stiff brake pedal that really does not help the situation, so, the ONLY way I can get it to work is to drop the sensitivity in game, and the sensitivity in Ghub,there is no other real solution.
I could completely change my driving style, but in 25 years I have never had to and I am not going to because the brakes in this game are perhaps not the best feature, as I say I come at this years from years of experience, not a bloody novice.
This game is not that super advanced, it is a giant patch on an existing game, I did play RF2 initially and found the same issue, it has ALWAYS been a factor in RF2, it is a very idiosyncratic engine as you well know.
In terms of not sucking it up, what am I supposed to do, go and buy a set of pedals because one game has crap brake physics?
Yes others can make it work, and I am sure there are hundreds who make it work fine, you could say the same about learning the drive for Gods sake, some can some take 30 tests and never do, what kind of argument is that. I was being beat yesterday by some schumck on a PS% controller, he didn't last but he was quick that proves very little other than if you persist with something you can still be quick
I have tried for months persisting with this brake issue and it costs me time in every braking area, I can see it, and there is not a lot I can do about it other than go out and spend a lot of money for pedals for one game. ANd I am certain that would improve this issue for me, not everyone, but me for sure.
The issue that in every other game I have played, be it casual or serious I have never once experienced this crazy brake locking thing.
I will start from the beginning, my serious wheel based gaming goes back to GTR, Rfactor, some early f1 games, a few years of Iracing, AC then ACC, Race 07 and its spin offs, some less serious like Grid, Raceroom, bike games like WSBK and MotoGP, Gran Turismo just about every version, Project Cars Dirt Rally, Dirt Rally 02. And quite a few others I cant remember.
This I think is a fairly decent spread of games to form an opinion. And for me I have never, ever had to drop the brake sensitivity in game to less than maybe 90 - 95%. I have seen this point raised a lot, not so much now as people are used to it and have changed their setups as I do
Some of your points are valid, I could learn, I could be miles off the pace and brake like a granny every time, cause accidents and spend the entirety of every race with flat spots and over worked tyres.
Do you think I have not TRIED to raise it seen if it works? Of course I have, but the way my wheel/pedal setup is done I have a fairly poor, very stiff brake pedal that really does not help the situation, so, the ONLY way I can get it to work is to drop the sensitivity in game, and the sensitivity in Ghub,there is no other real solution.
I could completely change my driving style, but in 25 years I have never had to and I am not going to because the brakes in this game are perhaps not the best feature, as I say I come at this years from years of experience, not a bloody novice.
This game is not that super advanced, it is a giant patch on an existing game, I did play RF2 initially and found the same issue, it has ALWAYS been a factor in RF2, it is a very idiosyncratic engine as you well know.
In terms of not sucking it up, what am I supposed to do, go and buy a set of pedals because one game has crap brake physics?
Yes others can make it work, and I am sure there are hundreds who make it work fine, you could say the same about learning the drive for Gods sake, some can some take 30 tests and never do, what kind of argument is that. I was being beat yesterday by some schumck on a PS% controller, he didn't last but he was quick that proves very little other than if you persist with something you can still be quick
I have tried for months persisting with this brake issue and it costs me time in every braking area, I can see it, and there is not a lot I can do about it other than go out and spend a lot of money for pedals for one game. ANd I am certain that would improve this issue for me, not everyone, but me for sure.