Simagic Alpha Mini settings
- Thread starter Cholton82
- Start date
ebeninca
Member
I had a Logitech G PRO before, 11 nm...
With the default Alpha Mini profile I felt almost no details, everything is so dampening.. made me think that the G PRO had much more Torque giving a more raw and brute experience...
But with some researching, i solved the problem..
The Mechanical options are too artificial for my taste, they hide / dampens the details...
The Smoothness seems to be the same options of in game smoothing, you'll always need a bit to avoid rattling specially on straits.
Last 3 parameters I'm working on yet...
Wheel Rotation Speed: You need to find a compromise between fast response (higher values) and easiness to catch slides (lower values)
Feedback Detail and Feedback Frequency: By my research seems useful to sims like iRacing where the FFB lacks details, theses options enhances details, maybe not much necessary in LMU and rF2.
Torque Capability should be equals to your base torque in NM.
No need smoothing if your already setted some on simagic software.
FFB Strength is how much your arms can handle, too much can harm your performance and maybe hurt yourself, can change for each car. If you're using high percentages there's a chance of clipping in some cars, you can verify it with Motec or Tinypedal.
With the default Alpha Mini profile I felt almost no details, everything is so dampening.. made me think that the G PRO had much more Torque giving a more raw and brute experience...
But with some researching, i solved the problem..
The Mechanical options are too artificial for my taste, they hide / dampens the details...
The Smoothness seems to be the same options of in game smoothing, you'll always need a bit to avoid rattling specially on straits.
Last 3 parameters I'm working on yet...
Wheel Rotation Speed: You need to find a compromise between fast response (higher values) and easiness to catch slides (lower values)
Feedback Detail and Feedback Frequency: By my research seems useful to sims like iRacing where the FFB lacks details, theses options enhances details, maybe not much necessary in LMU and rF2.
Torque Capability should be equals to your base torque in NM.
No need smoothing if your already setted some on simagic software.
FFB Strength is how much your arms can handle, too much can harm your performance and maybe hurt yourself, can change for each car. If you're using high percentages there's a chance of clipping in some cars, you can verify it with Motec or Tinypedal.
Last edited:
Mike710
Active member
Personal feedback after latest patch...
With the Hybrid cars, which were lacking detail In general since release for most, I pumped up the FFB to 90% and eliminated the smoothness to 0. You can even lower the mechanical damper and mechanical friction to taste. While the GTE´s and Oreca still feel better, the Hybrids now feel way better then before.
I Imagen that´s what most people are doing but It´s always worth posting you´re findings just In case! I would say that after the last patch, cars feel more alive and transmite what´s happening faster then before. Maybe It´s all in my head
who knows!
With the Hybrid cars, which were lacking detail In general since release for most, I pumped up the FFB to 90% and eliminated the smoothness to 0. You can even lower the mechanical damper and mechanical friction to taste. While the GTE´s and Oreca still feel better, the Hybrids now feel way better then before.
I Imagen that´s what most people are doing but It´s always worth posting you´re findings just In case! I would say that after the last patch, cars feel more alive and transmite what´s happening faster then before. Maybe It´s all in my head
who knows!
Mike710
Active member
Each car has It´s own signature which Is a great thing with LMU, but personally I find them as follows when It comes to FFB. From strongest to weakest...
- SCG-007
- 963
- 499P
- Cady
- GR010
- 680
- 9X8
I find the 007 the most fun and with most detail. Definitely give the 007 a good spin, you wont be disappointed.
- SCG-007
- 963
- 499P
- Cady
- GR010
- 680
- 9X8
I find the 007 the most fun and with most detail. Definitely give the 007 a good spin, you wont be disappointed.
Sergii Soroka
Active member
my setup method: 1. set all filters/interpolation to zero (both in the driver and in the game), 2. set the force and power of the base to maximum in the driver and never touch it again, dampers/springs/friction to zero, base speed maximum. 3. In the game, we adjust the force either by motek or any other feedback indicator to adjust by peaks, so that there is no clipping, or it is controlled, or by feeling, so that the hands do not suffer. 4. adjust the effort in the game for a specific car (I have Simagic Alpha-for GTE, LMP2, the effort in the game is 40% for long races 2h4, 50% for sprints 16min, there is no clipping). 5.set up filters. there is a game filter - I set the maximum to 1 (in the driver the filter is set to zero), the excessive sharpness of the curb disappears, but the tire slip is perfectly controlled), if you are not driving for results, then you can at least set it to 5. there is also a filter in the driver (filter, not interpolation). here experiment with values from smallest to largest. If the feedback seems too sharp to you, do not rush to increase the filter values - drive a few laps, you will be surprised, but your hands will tell you whether you need to make the feedback softer or if you no longer notice any discomfort. Set the interpolation in the driver to zero - this setting is only for Iracing, there is low frequency feedback, so it needs to be interpolated. 6. Well, at the very end you add a damper/friction/reduce the base speed and other fictitious settings that do nothing except steal detail. Well, here you are- Alien
ebeninca
Member
Update,
My final setup for LMU:
I found my balance between performance and feel.
Bonus:
The DRS labeled button is for some cars in rFactor2, I'm currently using it to call pit stop in LMU.
I'm using the bottom rotary to navigate on the MFD screen.
I discovered that the labels MIX and BMIG are fluorescent, specially the blue BMIG, nice thing to have at night.
An advice: Yesterday I was practicing and suddenly the wheel went crazy, the steering angle of the car wasn't following my inputs anymore, I found out that I miss clicked the "steer assist" option. I think that was a bad decision from LMU to set the assists screens as the first one when you enter settings inside the track. Just pay attention to it.
ebeninca
Member
Probably add some Mechanical Damper, alternatively you can add more smoothing.
I didn't race Le Mans yet, so I can't confirm the problem now.
Last edited:
Mike710
Active member
IIRC there Is a setting In the LMU settings menu for kerbs. Some cars have higher feedback return on kerbs then others. Hybrids have way lower return kerb feedback then GTE´s. Probably due to the suspension. Personally I like It as Is (on the higher end), It kind of wakes you up!
Emilian Huminiuc
Well-known member
That setting is no longer available (it wasn't supposed to have any effect anyway).
Mike710
Active member
Oh I see, I stand corrected then thanks.
The kerbs just seemed overpowered in their effects compared to the other effects but I have now found a setting for it. On one of the simagic discords I used the Simpro settings there and it is good now. Cheers
Can you share those settings. TY
