Driving hypercars

I love the gte and lmp2 cars, the way the drive the ffb... all good. I'm not a fan of the hypercars, the way they drive or the ffb. I think that might be because I don't know how to drive them. I usually turn up the tc (especially for cold tires) and add 2 steps forward to the brake bias but I still have issues with the cars locking up, spinning or understeering. I also keep the battery above 0 but below 100. The ffb also seems very light. Do you drive them differently? Setup, breaking or general driving advice?

Thanks
 
I find with hypercars you need to be very precise and gentle with them, in all sims i find it the same and after reading real life drivers , they say they are not every easy to drive and take alot of concentration, so its juts the way they are. I find them easier to drive the a GT3 car LOL no idea why .
 
I love the gte and lmp2 cars, the way the drive the ffb... all good. I'm not a fan of the hypercars, the way they drive or the ffb. I think that might be because I don't know how to drive them. I usually turn up the tc (especially for cold tires) and add 2 steps forward to the brake bias but I still have issues with the cars locking up, spinning or understeering. I also keep the battery above 0 but below 100. The ffb also seems very light. Do you drive them differently? Setup, breaking or general driving advice?

Thanks
Decrease brake pressure.. maybe help for you, also detach rear arb.
 
Hi,

I would be glad if someone could help me setting up the 499 for an easier setup than default. I will try detaching the rear ARB but any other advices would be appreciated.

Pierre
 
add 2 steps forward to the brake bias
And here is your issue, most common mistake people will do.

Moving brake forward will increase chance of locking, increase understeer on entry, increase the steering angle needed at turn-in generating tyre scrubbing (lowering front end grip, generating too much temp, pressure and wear) and ultimately after all those issue on entry resolves themselves it will most likely result in oversteer on exit because at some point front tyre will get grip again with an exagerated steering angle at an unpredictable moment (99% of the time when you will get back on throttle). And you end up in a loop trying to get that oversteer out of the car, generating even more understeer with the setup, going in a completely wrong direction.

So move the brake to the rear instead, get used to have an oversteery car, input less steering angle and drive with your pedals. It will resolves most of your problems. Overtseer can be dealt with by using proper driving techniques, understeer not so much.
 
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I see in this post I said move the brake bias forward, but I ment to say I moved the bias to the rear quite a bit (sorry). I'm OK with the Porsche now, and I'd love to get OK with a few of the hyper cars. They are tough to drive, fast, heavy but I can say that they are fun once you can keep the car on the race line.
 
driving hypercar is the same than "drive on the eggs" .
really understerring and i have the sensation that no aero load on car .. like drive on ice....
I don't know if in real car the sensation is the same ....
 
maybe obvious for some, but not for others, the hypercars need a lot more tire warm up
true that. I die two quals on Monza fixed and i usual push on 5th lap to set the qual. lap time. And in the race i will mostly just follow and stay close to other cars for at least 7/8 rounds before i start an overtake. I mean not the eszy ones when you can just go around someone… For me the hyper cars is by far the easiest car class to race without any aids at all…
 
maybe obvious for some, but not for others, the hypercars need a lot more tire warm up
The problem is warming them up or to understand if they are warmed up or not.
I still do not understand if the temps shown in the garage page are the reference for those shown in the bottom left HUD or not.
Sometime I have the tyres green when driving and in the bottom left HUD temps at 70. But in the garage the target values are higher than 90…so they should be blue.
It looks like the garage values are surface temp to be reached. Instead the Bottom left HUD values are rubber values. So how can we make a proper comparison ?
In other words, what are the right target values to be reached for the values in the bottom left HUD ?
 
Braking is a lot different than in the other two classes. In both you just stomp the brakes hard, dowshift hard for engine braking, then lift brakes slowly. With Hypercars, engine braking like that will lengthen braking for some reason. I find it best to just slowly downshift.
 
Braking is a lot different than in the other two classes. In both you just stomp the brakes hard, dowshift hard for engine braking, then lift brakes slowly. With Hypercars, engine braking like that will lengthen braking for some reason. I find it best to just slowly downshift.
Mate have you done today hypercar fixed at Fuji with Peugeot? Not sure but it could be that we were in the same race :D
 
Bit of advice, if you feather or hold the car on the brakes in the pit lane on the limiter, you will warm them up a bit more and also heat the tyres more..

Weaving does chuff all, even in real life, it heats the surface a bit but brake warming does far more
 
Bit of advice, if you feather or hold the car on the brakes in the pit lane on the limiter, you will warm them up a bit more and also heat the tyres more..

Weaving does chuff all, even in real life, it heats the surface a bit but brake warming does far more
Good advice, but have you checked brake heat radiates into the rims/tyres in LMU?
 
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